A Blue Moon On My Wrist - Dievas Vortex Professional

Strange header, you reckon? Well, patience, we will get to that soon enough. Up till about 2 months ago, I have only seen this watch on others' wrists and on Gnomon's website. When I finally saw one in the flesh, it did not fail to impress.

The Vortex Pro bears the no nonsense Teutonic trademark - simple, unpretentious, understated, utilitarian yet stylish. The white dial is interspersed with Arabic and minute stick markers. three black hands complete the dial configuration. An ETA 2824-2 is shrouded within the 44mm, plasma coated, matte black, titanium case. As usual, the crown is bordered by a pair of proportionately sized shoulders. It comes with a pair of matching black calf leather straps with contrasting red stitch.

My only major gripe is once again, with the crown. The crown is adequately and proportionately sized. However, the shoulders can be a set of unwelcome addition. It makes it rather tough to screw it down into position. The second gripe pertains to the HEV. The matte stainless steel component sticks out like a sore thumb one an otherwise, flawlessly constructed and finished blacked titanium case. The straps are secured onto the case by screwed-in bars.

The ridged bezel offers excellent grip and requires 60 clicks to complete a full revolution. It is adequately rigid with no free-play. However, the ratcheting sounds a tad hollow to me but works perfectly fine, nevertheless.

The spartan case back is equally simple. There is so much real estate that could be maxed out to enhance it somehow. Maybe it's just me but I wouldn't mind the Dievas logo to dominate the centre of the case back.

Despite its 44mm girth, it sits pretty on my tiny, flat wrist. This is made possible by the steeply angled lugs which minimise overhang. The crown position benefits the manner in which I wear my watches.

Now, here comes the blue moon. Yup! I absolutely love the full-lume dial! Not only does it provide excellent clarity, it is gorgeously handsome! This is really one for the lume freaks.

I've long wanted more white dials in my collection and the Vortex Pro more than fits the bill (the lume is a helluva bonus). This watch is also surprisingly versatile. I usually relegate black-cased watches to the "casual" classification, thus limiting their versatility. But the Vortex Pro has proved to be anything but. I have worn this with my shirt and tie combo on several occasions without feeling awkward.

However, like all timepieces, this is not a perfect watch but the pluses far outnumber the minuses on my tally sheet. Furthermore, the lume alone, far outweighs the few undesirables associated with this utilitarian beauty. The meticulously constructed case, the simple yet stylishly apportioned dial and the flawlessly finished and coated titanium case makes this an absolutely value for money catch. I'd rather have this than a Sinn equivalent, if any. Once again, Dievas has proved that less, does in fact, add to more appeal.

Specifications:

Case Size : 44mm.
Lug Width : 22mm.
Case Material : Plasma coated titanium.
Crystal : Domed sapphire.
Water Resistance : 500m.
Movement : ETA 2824-2.

Pros :
- Unbeatable full blue lume!
- Meticulously constructed and finished.
- Nice colour coordination.
- Versatile despite its case colour.
- Easily legible dial.
- Comfortable left-hand crown position.

Cons :
- Difficult to screw down crown.
- Underwhelmed case back design.

Two-Face Makes Five - Ennebi Fondale 44 Bronzo

Yup, the header sounds familiar? Indeed, it's another Ennebi Bronzo 44. Just couldn't resist it. Anyway, Since I'd previously reviewed another variant from this range not too long ago, this will be a short and simple pictorial review.

There are only two differences between this and my other Fondale 44 Bronzo. The first, and the most obvious, is the uniquely coloured dial. It looks literally like a two tone dial. Looking from left to right, the lighter shade of red/ brown builds up gradually into a brooding (almost) mocha brown. I gottta admit, this unique dial was the main impetus that snapped my purse strings.

The case is uniquely Ennebi. Simple, no nonsense and purposeful. And there's this thing about their bronze colour. Its vintage looking shade of dullness is anything but. the case and the dial are really a killer combo. To top it off, there's the engraved crown that resembles a heavily ornamented door knob from the medieval past.

The other distinguishing feature is the case back. the Ennebi logo takes centre stage on the rear end like a huge tattoo but tastefully done. This looks better than the overly spartan case back of my other Ennebi bronzo 44.

Lume is decent enough for me. The lumed logo is another plus.

Very proportionate fit on my tiny wrist.

Specifications :

Case Size : 44mm.
Lug Width : 24mm.
Water Resistance : 1,000m.
Movement : ETA 2824-2.
Case Material : Bronze.
Power reserve : +/- 42 hours.

Pros :
- Handsome watch.
- Nice mossy shade of bronze.
- Not a common piece.

Cons:
- Long waiting time for watch.
- Not very versatile. A full-time casual watch.

Master of Versatility - Dievas Vortex

The Range Rover - a car worthy of delivering you to a red carpet event, but one dependable warrior that is equally at home in the wild. Now that, to me, is versatility. Not many time pieces can be as versatile as the four-wheeled example I quoted. Most are either too sporty (or casual), or ultra-dressy.

However, I've recently found another object that's synonymous with the Range Rover, I mean, versatility - the Dievas Vortex. It is one watch in my stable that I am able to slap on my wrist regardless of the occasion.

The Vortex is a simple 3-hand watch, with a simple, uncluttered dial layout. Under the dial is the widely used ETA 2824-2 workhorse. All these are encased in a industrial grey 44mm titanium case.

The screw down crown situated at the 8 o'clock position while the HEV is located at the 10 o'clock position. the crown is flanked by relatively thick shoulders. This is also my biggest gripe. Although the crown size is relatively easy to operate, it is rather difficult to screw back down. It can be tough to align the threads. The position of the crown and the crown guards could also be possible factors.

The ridged 60-click uni-directional bezel is easy to use and ratchets with solid clicks. The straps are secured to the steeply angled lugs by screw-in bars. The thick lugs add to it's industrially handsome appeal but not overly so that it is not limited to being just a tool watch. Well, aesthetically, at least.

The case back is titanium as well and is delightfully spartan.

The turquoise lume is another delightful touch to a plain, yet handsome watch.

Despite the 44mm case diameter, it wraps around my wrist rather neatly. This, I believe, is due to the steeply angled lugs. The left-hand crown is another added plus as it doesn't dig into the fleshy back of my hand.

As I mentioned earlier, this is one versatile little catch. Although it may look casual with the brown strap set-up, it actually looks pretty professional when I'm in my 9-5 office guise. Needless to say, when I'm dressed for the weekends, this little number is equally at ease. It's non-nonsense, spartan, yet modern aesthetics is a major draw for me.

The Vortex comes in two variants - black leather straps with white stitch or a pair of case-fitting rubber straps. The latter could be a problem for smaller wrists as there might be a void between the lugs and the wrist. I've opted for a pair of brown water-resistant straps with white stitch.

Specifications:

Case Diameter : 44mm.
Lug Width : 22mm.
Crystal : Domed Sapphire.
Case Material : Micro blasted aerospace grade titanium.
Water Resistance : 500m.
Power Reserve : +/- 42 hours.

Pros:
- Versatility. A watch for all occasions.
- Simple yet eye-pleasing.
- Solid build and finish.
- Nicely angled lugs.
- Comfortable crown position.
- VFM - not too costly.

Cons:
- Difficult to operate crown.
- No date window.
- Rubber strap might not be suitable for smaller wrists.

If Looks Could Kill - Ennebi Fondale Vintage California Sub (Ref:9692)

"You're living ont he edge, hanging by a thread
I'm watching every move you make
You don't wanna see my anger
So don't make another mistake"

Believe it or not, these lines from Heart's "If looks could kill" flashed across my head several times during the process of acquiring my fourth Ennebi. It's a bit of an irony because it was very much love at first sight. Er... I'm referring to the Ennebi in question, of course. Man this watch is a beauty! If looks could kill indeed. It's also the lyrics from the song with the same title, If looks could kill (yeah, I'm an 80's rock fan) that scares the hell outta my skin.

When my wife found out about my third Ennebi, purchased a month earlier, the neighbours almost called the cops! You catch my drift? Thus, armed with whatever courage and stealth I could muster, I confirmed my interest on the phone with Gnomon Watches, and mounted a clandestine operation to arrange collection from Gnomon Watches within 12 hours. And yes, the missus still does not know about this watch!

The Ennebi Fondale Vintage California Sub (I shall refer to it as the 9626), in a nutshell, is a handsome watch. It's not exactly a sleek Ferrari. It's more subtle. More like a BMW M5, an unassuming scene stealer - big and purposeful. As the name suggests, the 9626 is adorned with a California dial with an oversized Ennebi NB logo. A seconds sub-dial sits at the 9 o'clock position.

Under the dial is the classic UNITAS 6497 calibre. Not a high performance engine but one with a long and illustrious history. These are ensconed within a massive and chunky 50mm, beadblasted stainless steel case. Finishing off the facade is a the signature, tri-ridged titanium Ennebi bi-directional bezel. But the conversational, attention magnet has to be the gold skull pip on the bezel.

The skull pip is made of 750kt gold. It's not sinister looking but adds a unique, macho touch to an otherwise rather plain face.

Broad shoulders flank the "pancetta" crown. Why they have named the crown design after an italian bacon, I have absolutely no idea. In fact it does not even resemble a slice of bacon in anyway.

Although the uniquely designed crown adds to the beautiful aesthetics of the watch, it is not easy to use. This is because of the circumference of the crown tapers steeply inwards towards the case. As such, the actual contact surface between fingers and crown is very limited. Thus making it difficult to turn the crown. The ridged sides does not hep much.

As with other Ennebies, the 9692 has clean surgically finished curves and lines. The straps are fastened to the case via screw-in bars.

A spartan case back adorns the bottom of the 9692 and features the usual essential info like the serial number, model reference and depth rating. Strangely, despite the abundance of space, the signature Tricolore is absent.

The watch comes with two pairs of original Ennebi calf straps. Each pair is fitted with the standard engraves Ennebi roller buckle.

The lume resembles a signed neon masterpiece that could make the visual artists at Industrial Light and Magic drop their jaw in awe.

The short, angled lugs ensure a very comfortable wrist-wrapping fit. Its thickness might need some getting used to for some folks.

This is a seriously handsome watch. However, most will tend to use it as a casual watch due to its size and golden skull pip. Other than this and the crown, I can't find much fault with this watch. This is truely my favourite Ennebi . Wearing this is like wearing a piece of art on your wrist.

Specifications:

Case Diameter : 50mm.
Lug Width : 24mm.
Movement : UNITAS 6497.
Crystal : Domed acrylic.
Case Material : Beadblasted 316L stainless steel.
Depth Rating : 1000m.
Power Reserve : +/- 42 hours.

Pros:
- Just plain handsome looking.
- Common lug width, easy to source for after market straps.
- Conversational piece.
- Wrist presence.
- Limited to 33 pieces.
- Reliable movement.

Cons:
- Limited to 33 pieces.
- Not easily or readily available.
- "Pancetta" crown difficult to use.
- High price tag.

They Get Better With Age - Montres-Militaire Officier De Marine MIL No. 7101 & 7102

Bronze. Not a desired metal among athletes but one that's gaining popularity in the world of horology. I must admit I've also fallen for this alloy. After Panerai launched the PAM 382 a couple of years back, almost every micro and boutique brand seems to want a piece of the action. I have not seen many bronze offerings in person, to date but among those I have fiddled with, the Montres-Militaire range is truly among the better ones.

Montres-Militaire is a relatively new company. It's founded by Markus Tschopp with the first watch, the Officier de Marine being offered only in May this year. This particular offering comes in 3 dial colours - green (ref: 7101), black (ref: 7102) and brown (ref: 7103).

These watches have been flying off the local AD's (Gnomon Watches) shelves since they were awarded the dealership about a month ago. I've managed to secure the green and the brown dial variants.

Montres-Militaire has confirmed that each dial colour is limited to 799 pieces worldwide.

The Officier de Marine is powered by a UNITAS 6497 movement. The 7101 has an olive green dial while the 7103 features a mocha dial. Gold Arabic (12, 3 and 6) and stick markers adorn the dial. All these are housed within a 47mm bronze case made up of tin and copper. However, the bezel kind if baffles me. Apart from the lumed pip, it is plain as a desert. The hollow ratcheting is not particularly awe-inspiring either. It sounds rather muted and hollow. But this is not a deal breaker for me.

The large crown is shouldered by two relatively huge crown guards that complement the overall aesthetics. The ridged crown is easy to pull out and wind as well. The straps are secured by screw-in bars. The case is well engineered and precisely cut. The lines are neat and clean. The lugs are relatively short and tightly angled, thus ensuring an rather snug fit.

In spite of the large case diamter, the watch is relatively thin. Not wafer thin but just right. The presence of copper is very obvious. It is hard not to notice. On the subject of colour, it is also very obvious from the photographs that the Officier de Marine patinas rather quickly. Considering I've only had the 7101 for about a month, it has actually started to turn darker. A lot darker. The 4-day old 7103 is is also showing signs of change as well, as evident in the photographs.

The pre-v styled buckles are also made using the same alloy. This is a nice touch as it will mean both the case and the buckle will patina at similar rates.

The stainless steel case back is signed with the Montres-Militaire logo in the centre and the usual literature on the circumference. The prominent deep grooves on the case back seems to suggest that a special tool might be required to open it. A stainless steel case back would also mean a smaller area, only the parts of the wrist that has contact with the bronze case will be stained.

These watches are no slouch in the dark. They are as bright as neon tubes when fully charged. The baby-blue hue of the hands and pip is a nice touch that brightens an otherwise, monotonous lume.

Despite the relatively huge 47mm case, the watch it sits rather snugly on my puny wrist.

These coppertone babes are are really one of the better value for money offerings I've managed to get lately. For patina freaks, this is a must have. They age really quick. What also drew me to them are the great finishing and reliable movement. It's no surprise then, that these watches are often pre-ordered by customers at Gnomon Watches and leave the shop as soon as they arrive.

Of the three variants, my favourites are obvious - green, brown, and followed by black in this order. If they ever make a black dial edition with rose gold casing, I'd scramble to the head of the line. I reckon the black and the brown will look really fantastic in a rose gold case. Her, Mr. Tschopp, I hope you catch my drift.

Specifications:
Case Diameter : 47mm.
Lug Width : 24mm.
Movement : UNITAS 6497.
Crystal : Sapphire.
Case Material : Bronze (Alloy of tin + copper).
Case Back : Stainless Steel.
Power Reserve : 46 Hours.

Pros:
- Good value for money.
- Fantastic looking conversational piece.
- Stainless steel case back limits stain area on wrist.
- Short, steeply angled lugs.
- Vey well finished.
- Quick patina.
- Nice lume.
- Limited to 799 pieces worldwide.

Cons:
- Muted and hollow bezel sound.
- Quick patina.
- Plain bezel.
- Limited edition.
- Only available in bronze.
- Not made in rose gold for black and brown dials.