Saturday, 15 June 2013

The One That Started It All - Ennebi Fondale Sunburst Silver (Ref: 9660-100)


Yes. This is the piece that started it all. The very culprit that is responsible for my Ennebi addiction. Despite my frequent visits to Gnomon, I've never actually seen one at the shop. The Ennebi display case is perpetually devoid of watches except for the Titanic Black, a massive 65mm table clock disguised as Goliath's wrist watch. It's no surprise, actually as the wait list for the watch stretches form 6  months to even a year.

Anders was determined that I should find out what the fuss was all about, so, when he received a piece a couple of months ago, he saved it for me to take a look before putting it on display. Well, to put the rest in a nutshell - I went, I saw and I caved.


This Ennebi comes in a grey grade 5 titanium case. The colour is lighter then the GFB in the preceding review. Like the GFB, this case measures 47mm in diameter, it's also capped with an acrylic top as well. Under the hood, is the ETA 2824-2. However, due to the lighter shade of grey on this Ennebi, the watch does not look as industrial. It actually looks kinda cool. Although depth-rated to 1000m, it does not have any HEV fitted on the case.



What drew me to this watch is the silver sunburst dial. It's got the loveliest sunburst I've seen in a while. Also, I reckon I have far too many black dial watches. A silver dial would make a nice addition to my drawerful of black faces. The dial is complimented with light green hour markers ( a mix of Arabic numerals and stick indices), a slim arrow second hand an thin luminous orange hour and minute hands. The smooth-edged, bi-directional bezel is easy to operate. Three humps on the bezel replaces the traditional serrated rim on most bezels. A purple precious stone sits on the pip of the bezel. i'm guessing it's amethyst.







The chunky case is meticulously finished. Precision engineering at its best. The lines are clean and crisp. The angels are taut and neat. The lugs are stout and curved. the crown is large but thin. It's flanked by a pair of broad shoulders. The straps ae held in place by screwed-in bars.


The case back features the standard minimalistic Ennebi-style literature.


As with other Ennebies, this unit comes with two pairs of Mario Paci calf leather straps as standard. Each pair of strap is fitted with the signature Ennebi titanium roller buckle. The leather supplied really accentuate it's rugged macho stature.



Despite it's huge, chunky case, this watch sits very comfortably on my tiny, flat wrist. The curved lugs cuts back any unsightly overhang and makes it look just right on the wrist.


This piece has the nicest lume among the three Ennebies I have in my stash. The orange lume adds a unique touch to the neon-bright markers.


There is very little I do not like about my first Ennebi. My only regret is not having found out about the brand earlier. The quality of the finish really speaks volumes. If you're waiting for yours, I assure you, it's worth the wait.


Specifications:
Case diameter : 47mm.
Case material : Grade 5 titanium.
Crystal : Acrylic.
Lug size : 24mm.
Movement : ETA 2824-2.
Power reserve : +/- 40 hours.

Pros:
- Lume orange hands.
- Sunburst dial design.
- High quality finishing.

Cons:
- Long wait for watch.
- High price tag.


Friday, 14 June 2013

Intrigued By Grey Matter - Ennebi Fondale GF Black (Ref: 9660-100GFB)


My fascination with the Ennebi brand continues with my third Ennebi purchase. Damn, this is becoming an obsession! No! It's a hopeless addiction. And it doesn't help that the pusher is constantly feeding this junkie with teasers. When Anders informed me that he had just received one piece of the GFB, the insatiable urge for more Florentine drug got the better of me. Thus, another parking lot in one of my 18-slot watch case gets another permanent tenant.


The GFB comes in a 47mm grade 5 titanium case, fixed bezel and acrylic crystal. Encased within within this chuck of titanium is the widely used ETA 2824-2 calibre. It is depth- rated to 1000m and like all its stable mates, there's no HEV. This particular unit comes with a dark mocha dial.


Like all its siblings, this case is rather chunky. The lugs are steeply curved with rounded ends. The straps are held in place by screwed-in bars. The over-sized crown is a joy to operate. 




What really drew me to this brooding beast are its aesthetically clean lines and industrial-grey sheen. The broad shoulders that guards the crown further enhances its clean, industrial looks. This gem is really the very epitome of precision engineering in watchmaking.


Every time I look at it, it never fails to remind me of some kind of mean and purposeful industrial machinery.


Even a armoured military vehicle. A tank, to be precise.


The inscription on the case back further strengthens its industrial image. However, there is one major gripe. Although it comes with a painted Italian flag to stamp its Italian heritage, the green paint on the flag started to smudge after a few days of wear. I have informed the folks at Gnomon and they have, in turn, notified their Italian principal. Now the wait begins for a solution.


Like all Ennebies, this industrial warrior comes standard with 2 pairs of Mario Paci calf leathers, each fitted individually with Ennebi's signature engraved roller buckle in titanium. The buckles are fitted to the straps by hex screws.


Not much I can complain about the neon-bright lume dial.  I really dig the turquoise glow.


On the wrist, it's a real comfort. Thanks to a large part, the steeply curved lugs. It wraps around my flat 6.75-inch wrist like seaweed on a California roll. The curved lugs also ensures that there is hardly any overhang when worn on a small wrist like mine.


There is really nothing much I do not like about this baby. It's clean, precise simplicity really speaks volumes. There is no wonder there is a long wait list of Ennebi's offerings.



When I bought my first Ennebi, a couple months back, I was warned by current owners, enthusiasts and Anders that it's a downward spiral with no u-turn in sight. I shrugged it off. But now, I've learned the hard way, one should set up a half-way house for Ennebi-addicts, or at least an AA-like help group!

Specifications:
Case diameter : 47mm.
Case Material : Grade 5 titanium.
Lug size : 24mm.
Crystal : Acrylic.
Movement : ETA 2824-2.
Power reserve : +/- 40 hours.

Pros:
- Surgically precise finished case.
- Nice case colour and design combo.
- Curved lugs with little overhang.
- High quality finish.
- Relative scarcity.

Cons:
- Relatively high price tag.
- Scarcity and long wait list.
- Smudged paint job on case back.





Alternative Metal - Ennebi Fondale Bronzo



Ever since the PAM 382 was unveiled to the world in 2011, the popularity of watches featuring this alloy have also surged. thus, when I was informed by Gnomon of the availability of the Ennebi Bronzo recently, i fled down to the shop to take a look. Within minutes, I've acquired my first bronze watch.

Ennebi is not a new name in the world of horology. Based on the information I've scoured from the internet, this brand seem to enjoy some kind of cult status among enthusiasts. I've never heard of this maker until I started visiting Gnomon.

"Out of stock" are three words that a synonymous with Ennebi. They are consistently sold out. The wait time for one can stretch from 6 months to a year.


I'm  not certain of the composition or materials used by Ennebi in it's bronze cases. What I do know is I like it enough to purchase one. What I do know, from other owners is that theirs' have patina-ed nicely over time. Unlike the recently released Steinhart Marine Officer Chrono Bronzo, the Ennebi case is not as shiny or bright. The Ennebi Fondale Bronzo has a matte tint that is rather dull looking. The case had already achieved some patina when it arrived at the Gnomon showroom.

The Fondale Bronzo is fitted with a pari of shark skin straps that matches the case like truffle to scrambled eggs. The here were two dial colours availble but I could only pick the black dial as there were only 2 pieces of olive green dials and both were already taken.

The minute markers gives it a military look. However, it also crowds the dial and make the watch look a tad smaller than it's 44mm. In case you're wondering, the "44" on the dial is a reference to it's case size, which is actually the smallest in Ennebi's line-up.


The watch case is typical Ennebi - chunky. The Engraved crown, situated at the 3 o'clock position, is shouldered by crown guards. the large and thick crown makes it easy for those with short fingernails to operate.

The bi-directional bezel takes a bit of effort to turn. Maybe because it's still new. A complete rotation takes 24 dull, clicks to fulfill. To operate the bezel, one needs to push it down to turn.


The case is meticulously finished and is absolutely flawless. The lugs are angled sharply downwards to allow it to hug close to the wrist. The straps are secured to the case by screwed-in bars.

This piece is depth-rated to 1000m. However, it does not require a HEV. This is not the only unusual feature of this watch. According to Anders of Gnomon, unlike most watches, the ETA 2824-2 that powers this gem, is fitted from the top and not via the case back. The case is also designed to house the movement directly, without the need for a separate housing or cage like most other watches.


The case back is not crowded with unnecessary literature but the bare essentials - the model and reference, serial number, brand and depth rating.


Each watch comes with a pair of shark skins and a pair or calf straps, both fitted with Ennebi's signature roller buckle in the same matching alloy.


This 44mm beauty sits nicely on my flat-topped, 6 3/4-inch wrist. Thanks to curved lugs, it wraps around the wrist perfectly. The heft is just right as well.


This guys is no slouch in the dark as well. The well charged markers glow like a neon sign in the darkest hours and environment.


This watch is not perfect but it sure is a really cool one to own. It's beautifully understated and well crafted. I'm ready to cast it's very limited list of imperfections to oblivion. This is also one of the few watches that can go really well with shark skin. In fact, I'm certain it'll look equally good shod with shagreen.

This watch has all the 'C's I look for in a watch - Cool factor, Case construction, Conversational piece, Calibre - ETA 2824-2 ( a truly reliable workhorse), and a Cult-like following.

Specifications:
Case size : 44mm.
Crystal : Acrylic.
Cas Material : Bronze.
Lug size : 24mm.
Movement : ETA 2824-2.
Depth rating : 1000m.

Pros:
- Cool factor.
- Conversational piece.
- Flawlessly finished case.
- Cult following.
- Sturdy.
- Relatively rare.

Cons:
- Stiff bezel.
- relatively high price tag.
- Rarity and waiting time for stock availability.


Sunday, 9 June 2013

Rubber Summit - Everest Band (Rubber Straps for Rolex Submariner)


My first ever strap review. Ander's of Gnomon informed us recently that he will be bringing in some rubber straps for Rolex sport models. The band is from Everest Bands from the States. They are one of a small pool of specialists that make rubber straps for Rolex sport models. He passed me the straps, fitted to his DLC sub to trial it for the weekend. And it's bad news. but that's another story...



Firstly, the tapering is similar to the original rolex bracelet. The fixed parts of the bracelet, from what I was told. The bottom piece comes with a black (DLC?) link.


The straps are contoured to fit the case perfectly. No unsightly protrusions or overhang. It protrudes slightly over lugs but I reckon that's acceptable.



The straps cap over the bottom of the case rather neatly as well. The cap extensions of the built-in adaptors look thick but they are actually about the same height of the case back and flush with the top of the case back.


The straps are designed for you to use the original Rolex clasp and bracelet links should the straps be too short.






On the wrist, the Everest straps are very supple. Not soft but supple - firm but not overly so, but not too hard either. They are just a little firmer than Isofranes but are rather comfortable on the wrist. Although there appears to be a rather huge gap in the pic, the watch seem to be sitting firmly in position. I've had it on for several hours and I did not feel warm at all. You might have noticed some lint on the strap but they are not as scary as some of the lint magnets I have tried.

In a nutshell, this pair of straps are generally comfortable, and allows the original links to be added on as well as the original clasp to be fitted on as well. What I really like is the feel and comfort. And the relatively low lint magnetism. But nothing's perfect, these straps come in one size only. So, if you have a small wrist, one solution is to remove the links that come with the straps. Another problem, is the limited colour options. If I recall correctly, they come in only blue, black, green, hunter green and orange (for specific Rolex models). Well, at least they offer more options than Henry Ford!

At SGD190.00 a pair, I reckon these are pretty decently priced.

And now, the bad news. When the wife saw the watch and the strap, her pupils dilated and stressed that she wants one! Anders, I hate to tell you this but you ain't getting the watch back!

Pros:
- Supple feel, not too hard or soft, just right.
- Not a major lint magnet.
- Built-in adaptor and contours to the case perfectly.
- Competitively priced.
- Can be fitted with original Rolex clasp and links.
- Comfort.

Cons:
- Limited colour options.
- One size only.



Saturday, 1 June 2013

Ying Yang Twins - Steinhart Ocean Vintage Military and Ocean Vintage Military Black Ops


As some of you are well aware, I have a preference for retro/ vintage inspired timepieces. The Ocean diver range of watches from Steinhart is pretty well sought after. Particularly the Ocean Vintage Military (OVM). This piece is constantly out of stock.

However, I was fortunate to be offered a 3-week old OVM by a buddy who had bought it from another guy who sold the watch the same day he got it from Gnomon as he had grown out of the watch following a 6-month wait.

A couple of weeks later, Anders informed me that the OVM Black Ops (OVM BO) had arrived. I went down that same evening after work to check it out. After a tough 2-minute deliberation, I caved and surrendered my credit card.

Now, let's place the Ying Yang twins under the microscope...



The OVM is indeed a handsome beast. The patina-ed looking orangey-yellow indices are eye-catching. the spearhead second hand and the well-proportioned hour and minute hands provide a beautiful balance on a simple, minimalist matte black dial. The uni-directional bezel completes a full revolution in 60 loud, crisp clicks. The bezel is easy to operate, thanks to the serrated circumference.

These twins are powered by ETA 2824-2 under the hood. However, the date function have been removed.


The OVM BO is similar to the OVM in every aspect except that it's DLC coated. The other difference I noted was the sound of the bezel clicks. The OVM BO's is not as crisp but has a kind of echo to it.


Both watches are fitted with slightly domed sapphire crystals that are slightly raised above the bezel. The thin profile of the OVM and OVM BO allows it to be tucked neatly under shirt cuffs, thus enhancing their versatility. However, like most DLC and PVD watches, the OVM BO is pretty much restricted to a casual function. The crowns are also signed with the Steinhart logo.



Both case backs are engraved with the standard Steinhart Ocean One Logo of a trident-wielding King Neptune riding a Seahorse-drawn chariot. The outline of the OVm feels a lot sharper than the OVM BO's.



the OVM comes standard with brushed stainless steel bracelet with polished sides and screwed-in links. The OVM BO comes fitted with DLC bracelet in the same configuration as the stainless steel variant. I've swopped the bracelet of the OVM BO with mocha calf straps as I do not want any battle scars on the original DLC bracelet.

the two watches are rather versatile. I've paired the OVM successfully with olive, brown and tan NATO straps. Successful pairings with the OVM BO include black, olive, black and mocha leather NATO's. Simple leather straps have proved to be equally competent with these watches.





On the wrist, both watches command attention but the OVM has more wrist presence, in my opinion.


These boys are no slouch in the dark either.



The OVM is a truly versatile watch that is at home under the shirt cuff as well as a weekend warrior. Its 42mm case size, coupled with the vintage look, commands wrist presence.



The OVM BO, on the other hand is not a desk-diver's best mate. It completes casual outfits better than shirts and cuffs. As with most black watches, it looks more diminutive than its stainless steel brother.

The OVM tends to get more wrist time then the OVM BO. It is not because I prefer one to the other. Preference does not have any influence as I like both watches. However, the OVM BO servers as another casual watch in my inventory. And there are only two weekends per week. However, my only consolation is that I was told the OVM BO is no longer in procudtion. I hope this is true.

One note to current and prospective owners, the screws on the brcelets tend to loosen over time and come off easily. Do apply some loctite to secure them.

Specifications:
Case diameter : 42mm.
Material : Stainless steel (OVM), stainless steel with DLC coating (OVM BO).
Movement : ETA 2824-2.
Lug size : 22mm.
Crystal : Domed sapphire.

Pros:
- Value for money.
- Versatility with strap options.
- Overall versatility (OVM).
- Commands wrist presence.
- Simple, eyetching design.
- Colour of markers.
- Balanced look.
- Just right case size.

Cons:
- Long wait for watch.
- DLC coating can chip off over time, particularly bracelet (OVM BO).
- Screws on links loosen over time.
- Constantly out of stock.
- No longer in production (OVM BO).
- MNot very versatile, limited to casual watch status (OVM BO).