Yet Another Variant - Squale 20 ATMOS Maxi

Squale, through their distributor, Gnomon, launched yet another variant of the 1545 - the Maxi. As most of you have observed by now, I'm in my vintage inspired phase at the moment. At this rate, my bank account will be parched very soon. Anders, my dear boy, I am not exactly very pleased with you! My little daughter will have no Christmas prezzies this year thanks to you!

As I've already reviewed two other variants from this range in my earlier postings, I'll let the photos do the talking.

Right, on with the watch...

Why the name Maxi? Check out the indices/ markers on the dial. They are not gilt, nor are they bordered with silver. They are bordered with what looks like the original white, under the applied superluminova. This makes the indices appear larger, thus Maxi.

Not sure if you've noticed yet but the dial is not black like the classic or vintage. It's kinda like a charcoal/ grey colour. The dial appears to be matt but not dull though as it complements the indices rather well.

Placed alongside the polished black dial Classic, the colour of the Maxi's dial is more obvious.

The second hand sweeps smoothly across the dial unlike some other watches running on the same ETA 2824-2 movement.

The lume is decent enough for me. Duration is moderate. What I like is the grain lume which I reckon, adds to that vintage feel.

Once again, no visible threads on the stem housing and the same ribbed crown and crown guards.

And once again, 10/10 for that perfect cyclops date window.

Once again, a mix of polished and brushed surfaces on the case. Nicely proportioned signed crown.

High gloss surfaces enhances the sexy curves and neat lines.

The case back is identical to those offered in the second batch of 1545's - burnished centre and the same literature surrounding the circumference. Oh, and the serial number, too.

Screw-in pins, as with all current releases. Same polished diver's extentions.

Enough said. Think I'll let the pics do the talking.

Actually, I reckon a little bit of red on the dial might give this piece a little lift as well.

Pros:
- The ever reliable ETA 2824-2.
- Larger looking indices.
- Nice diver's extension.
- Tight clasp.
- Bang for the buck.
- Good construction and finish.
- Screw-in links.

Cons:
- Tight clasp that's nail breaking to remove (literally!).
- Too much loctite applied to screws on the links.

Weapon of Mass Destruction - Aquadive Bathyscaphe 300

My interest in dive watches began earlier this year. My criterion is simple - BIG, hefty, BIG, aesthetically pleasing, BIG... Well, you catch my drift, I suppose?

My online search yielded a truckload of results. As I was scanning through them, the Aquadive Bathyscaphe 300 (BS300) caught my attention. Hopped over to the local AD for a quick look. After a quick examination, decided to purchase it as well as the NOS diver ( which I will review at a later date) for the lady at home as a couple watch.

Now, on with the watch.

The dial is polished black. A pretty glossy black dial, imo. In fact, I'd associate this kind of polished surface ore with an elegant dress watch than a rugged chunk of steel such as this. But I'm pleasantly surprised that it complements the watch quite well.

This is a rather massive watch. Although a 47mm case diameter should only warrant it to be a huge/ big watch, it's the thickness of the entire watch and the weight that makes it worthy to be called massive. It weighs in excess of 300g when strapped to it's original Isofrane straps. Case height is 20mm, thanks to it's relative thick bezel. The profile reminds me of a bathyscaphe as well.

The Helium Escape Valve (HEV) is subtly placed between the lugs. Partially hidden by the straps. A nice touch, imo.

The case is finished with both polished and brushed surfaces. The case back features the usual literature as well as the limited edition #.

The tall, grooved bezel is easy to operate. It completes a full rotation in 120 clicks. It turns with a very unusual rachetting sound. It's not particularly assuring in terms of reliability, imho. But there's been no problem so far. Maybe it's intentional, just to add to it's vintage look. There is also quite a bit of free play on the bezel. Again, I'm wondering if this is to add to its vintage appeal?

The lume is pretty impressive. There are supposed to minor supplementary lumed indices between the perimeter of the dial and the main arkers, but I was unable to charge them up well enough for this shot.

The lume burns bright but not for long, though.

This watch is depth rated to 3000m. Even if you meet with a mishap while diving, this baby would still be for treasure hunters, years after you've imploded!

The case houses the workhorse ETA2824-2. The sweep of the second hand is rather smooth for a watch this size running on this tried and tested, beater of an engine.

The watch comes with two pairs of Isofrane straps - black and orange. Both comes with engraved buckles. This is my first experience with Isofrane straps. They are very comfortable but a bitch to put on as the strap end takes some effort to push into the keepers.

The 24mm lug size is perfect for this watch however, they should have machined the lug holes deeper inside the lug arms. It is currently placed too near to the perimeter of the lug arms. Whether you're using the stock Isofranes or any after market straps, the lugs will be partially visible. Another gripe I have is the stock thin lugs that came with the watch. they are not very confidence inspiring. In fact, one of the lug ends was bent when I changed straps for the very first time.

Despite it's massive build, this hulk of a watch sits comfortably on my 6 3/4 inch wrist. It doesn't look too huge. It seems just nice. It doesn't look out of place.

This is a very successful take on a vintage design. Clear, visible dial, nice rugged looks yet not too over the top. A modern interpretation on a retro design. This is a beautiful monster. A beauty AND a beast wrapped in one package.

If you like chunky metal, this will not disappoint. If you like hefty watches, you should check this out. However, watches this size tends to be ding magnets so one has to always remember what's on your wrist and to give yourself enough clearance in order to prevent scratches and dents. But the heft should serve adequately as a reminder. And thanks to the weight, this watch can serve a defensive purpose.

Specs:
Case size : 47mm.
Lug size : 24mm.
Movement : ETA 2824-2.
Power reserve : +/- 42 hours.
Straps : Isofrane (2 pieces).

Pros:
- Aesthetically pleasing.
- A head turner.
- Hefty watch.
- Can be used as a weapon.
- 2 pairs of Isofrane straps.
- Very well constructed and machined.
- Easy to turn tall bezel.
- Bright lume.
- Limited edition, thus can be a rare sight.
- Reliable and easy to maintain movement (ETA 2824-2).

Cons:
- Ding magnet due to it's size.
- Pricey - not exactly a cheap watch.
- too much free play on the bezel.
- Stock lugs are too tiny.
- Lug holes are too close to the perimeter of the lug arms/ housing.

My Brown Shark - Squale 20 ATMOS Root Beer 1545

Earlier this week, Anders stopped me from making yet another purchase. "Wait till the end of the week", he said. "I've got a surprise for you and you'll love it!". So patiently, I waited till today. I headed over to Gnomon and demanded that he kept me in suspense no longer. He relented and came back to the counter with an auburn beauty queen. After a brief examination (and i meant somewhere along the line of 15 seconds), I relented two and flashed my credit card and purchased 2 - one for myself and one to appease higher authority at home.

I will not be going into as much details as I did in my last review (the Squale 20 ATMOS vintage) as this is just another variant of the range. I'll be focusing on the differences and noteworthy features.

No on with the watch...

I have spent the past 2 hours scrutinizing my latest catch. Firstly, as you should be aware by now, this latest offering is from the same product line as the vintage 1545 which I reviewed yesterday. The same clean lines and sexy curves are present on the casing.

Firstly, the dial. What's the difference? Well, for starters, it's brown (sunburst brown, to be precise) and amazingly beautiful! It's literally a piece of art, imho. It's complemented by a brown bezel with gold arabic numerals and indices. Round indices surround the circumference of the dial. and matching gilt mercedes hands and logo complete this visual feast.

Once again, the gilt date window is nicely magnified with the correct cyclops eye.

Another feature which, I feel, deserves to be mentioned again is the screw-down crwon. Unlike most watches the threads are concealed.

The current batch of 1545 comes with an updated case back design. The Squale logo is embossed on a burnished centre. And the serial number is now indicated on the case back as well as the other usual literature.

How's the lume? it's not too shoddy imo. You be the judge. However, it didn't last exceptionally long. and I am not comparing it against any Seiko diver either. But hey! Who cares about the lume?!!! This is a timepiece you want to complement your wrist in bright daylight!

Once again, the lugs are well proportioned at 20mm and are mated to a tapered (20mm-18mm), brushed stainless steel bracelet. I could be wrong but I don't think they are hollow links as they are rather hefty. The bracelet on this model differs from the one on the vintage, which explains why it's marginally more expensive than the vintage. The bracelet comes with screwed links, unlike the vintage, which utilizes pins. Do be careful when trying to remove the links yourselves as quite a fair bit of loctite seems to have been applied at the factory.

The twin-lock clasp is also slightly different from the vintage. The Squale logo is now on the main body of the clasp rather then on the secondary closure. Also, the diver's extension is also slightly different from the vintage's. It is more mordern and not so utilitarian looking. However, I do have one gripe with the clasp. It's more difficult to unclip if you have short fingernails like me. The main clasp is folded into a steeper angle. But it's more reassuring than the first batch's.

Despite it's rather diminutive size by today's standards, it sits rather comfortably on my 6 3/4 inches wrist. It's a really versatile watch that blends in with your shirtsleeves and tie as well as your jeans and tees. Its looks equally great bonded to metal or attached to leather.

this is really a watch you'll never tire of wearing. Simply because it looks absolutely stunning! It'll definitely be a conversation piece in most situations.

I am not certain if this will b the only release. However, I had personally witnessed the popularity of this model. As soon as this was posted on the Gnomon website and facebook page, phone enquries started pouring in. I personally saw 3 pieces being sold to walk-in customers. as I was leaving the shop, I overheard that there were only 21 pieces left. Anders informed me earlier that only 30 pieces were available.

The Specs:

Case : 40mm.
Lugs : 20mm.
Bracelet : Straight Brushed Stainless Steel.
Movement : ETA 2824-2.
Power reserve : +/- 42 hours.

Pros:
- Value for money.
- Exceptionally beautiful.
- Drool worthy.
- Good construction.
- Reliable movement.
- Versatility.

Cons :
- The tight clasp - difficult to unclip.
- Huge demand.
- Excessive use of loctite on the link screws.
- Relatively short duration lume.

My First Shark - Squale 20 ATMOS 1545 Vintage

About a month ago, I was telling Anders of Gnomon that watch companies seem to be headed down memory lane of late. Rado with the D-Star, Rolex with the orange hand Ex2, JLC with the Rendezvous, Tudor with the Black Bay to name a few.

He smiled and tickled me with a teaser. He said told me to hold off my purchases for now as he would be launching a couple of value for money offerings from Squale very soon.

I waited impatiently, bugging him for preview pics but he just wouldn't relent.

Then came the fateful day. I tried it, thought it's a tad too small for me and decided to pass. But I couldn't stop thinking about it for the next 2 days and told Anders I'll take the last piece that he had. Thank God as there were only 20 or 30 pieces produced.

And since, then, I've had 2 offers from two brothers in WUS. But as My wife has expressed interest in it as well, I declined their offers. Furthermore, I do not have a habit of selling my pieces.

Anyway, let's take a close look at the watch now.

This watch bears a close resemblance to the Rollie that it pays homage to. The case is very well finished. All the right curves and lines. the 40mm case diameter is identical to Rolex Sub it's pay homage to.

This variant is fitted with a NOS (new old stock) gilt dial with gilt Mercedes hands to match. the text just above the 6 o'clock index is another tasteful design feature.

They have also added the correct magnifier to the cyclops date window. It's perfectly magnified.

The uni-directional bezel makes a full rotation in 120 clicks. It's firm and steady and has hardly any free play. Very reassuring.

It also has a relatively slim profile which makes it a snitch when in shirtsleeves.

Another pleasantly unusual feature that amazed me was the crown. unlike most watches, the threads are on the inside of the crown. You can't see any threads on the stem housing. Also, it takes about 8-9 turns to screw and unscrew the crown. Another assurance of it's water resistance?

The case back is pretty spartan save for the usual literature, model reference and Squale logo.

The twin lock clasp snaps into place easily and holds down firmly and unclips with minimal fuss. True to form as a diver's watch, it even comes with diver's extension.

 

The bracelet is tapered and I don't think it has to be as the case is not that huge. They are well constructed and has hardly any gaps in between. It has a nice solid feel. However, the bracelet that comes with the watch could be rather short for those with larger wrists. Some have complained of insufficient links.

I'm more used to watches with a minimum of 42mm diameter but thanks to the bracelet and case construction, it doesn't look or feel too small on my wrist (which is not too hug actually only 6 3/4 inches).

This watch has been compared against the MK II Kingston and Steinhart Ocean Black 1. I have not seen the former but have fiddled with the latter countless times. My thoughts in a nutshell between the Steinhart and the Squale:

1) The Steinhart is more like an enhancement of the Rolex Sub - big in every way. A modern interpretation of a classic. The date magnifier seems to be pointless, imho.
2) The Squale is truer to form as a homage. Similar size, Cyclops date window that actually servs a purpose.

Basic Info:
Case : 40mm.
Movement : ETA 2824-2.
Power Reserve : +/- 40 hours.
Case : Stainless Steel.
Dial : NOS black dial with gilt indices and hands.

Pros:
- Value for money.
- Nice heft for its size.
- Versatile - as a work day watch and for the weekends.
- Very well constructed.
- Reliable movement.
- Unique screw-down crown design.
- Beautifully crafted gilt NOS dial and hands.

Cons:
- Very limited production.
- Short bracelet.

My First Hand Wound - Dievas 3646.

I've always owned and preferred automatics for the convenience they offer. as long as it's on your wrist, it'll keep running. I have never understood others' fascination with handwound watches. I've always had this fear of forgetting to wind it. Until one fateful day, while visiting Gnomon watches, I witnessed the arrival of several Dievas hand wound models - the Kampfschwimmer, the 3646 and the califormnia vintage.

Suddenly, it hit me in the face, and the 3646 really stood out at the moment and ignited a latent longing to possess it.

What got to me was the soothing. loud and clear ticking of the movement.

Anyway,as the cliche goes, the rest is history. On with my thoughts on this time piece.

The 3646 bears a striking resemblance to the pam radiomir. Unfortunately, I cannot afford one to do a comparison against.

The sandwich dial adds that bit of class to the watch as well. I'll post some lume shots later.

It utilizes the same Unitas 6497 movement but without the swan neck regulator.

Aesthetically, it bears clean lines and the polished case adds a dash of class to it. It exhibition case back holds another marvelous sight. Cote de Geneve stripes, and 17 visible rubies, to say the least.

The spinning of the wheel ans the pulsating hairspring are clearly visible. kinda reminds me of a beating heart.

Beating at a slower 21600vph, it sounds like a fitter athlete than it's ETA 2824 and Valjoux 7750 brethens.

The domed sapphire crystal adds another vintage dimension to this piece of art. The cushion case wears comfortably on the wrist, especially with the way the lugs are angled. It fits my 6 3/4 wrist perfectly.

The downside to this time piece, imho, is the high polish steel. I can foresee it's fate in the future. It's likely to be a ding magnet. But I reckon this is part and parcel of owning any timepiece.

The watch comes with a pair of black straps with white stitch ( iirc). I'll post pics of the box's comntents later. It also comes with strap changing tools.

Changing the lugs take a bit of practice (thanks to the high gloss surface) but when fastened correctly, it's very secure.

I prefer brown straps for that vintage feel.

I've been enjoying this watch quite a fair bit and it's been getting quite a fair bit of wrist time.

This watch is pretty versatile and serves well as a weekend as well as a daily office wear accessory.

Here're the specs:
Case size : 47mm
Lug size: 26mm
Movement: Unitas 6497 hand wound

A value for money winner!