Mysteriously (Un)Stealthy Black Beauty - Glycine Airman Base 22 "Mystery" (Ref: 3887)

Stealth watches are a bit of a paradox, in my opinion. Stealth, as far as my limited understanding goes, means to be inconspicuous. However, most stealth watches are anything but. In fact, stealth watches tend to attract more attention. The Glycine Base 22 "Mystery" is another such example.

Firstly, I'm a sucker for red and black combos. Ever since I saw it on the internet about a year ago, I had been waiting patiently for it to show up on our shores. I finally get to try it sometime during the middle of the year at a shop near me office. However, I was not entirely sold as it was kind of thin and it could do with a slightly larger case. But when I saw it again at Gnomon Watches a few months later, I caved and decided to get for my trip to Italy.

The Mystery is a tow-time zone watch fitted with a ETA 2836 movement. However, Glycine has christened it as the calibre GL 293. Under the anti-reflective coated Sapphire crystal is a 24-hour "blackout" dial for the second time zone. There are additional stick markers and a 12-hour Arabic inner rim for the main time zone. Yes, it does look a bit busy and I must admit it still takes me a while to read the time on occasions. Honestly, this is not a "quick glance" watch. Well, not without some practice and getting used to, at least. The red GMT hand is a neat touch providing a nice contrast to a dark facade.

The bi-directional bezel further facilitates a third-time zone capability. One unique feature that accompanies this bezel is the locking mechanism at 4 o'clock. Glycine calls it a "spacer system" and "hatched crown". These are actually fanciful names for a simple screw-down locking mechanism. I was initially concerned about the hatched crown hindering the operation of the relatively tiny crown at the 3 o'clock position. However, I am very pleased that not only did the hatched crown not obstruct time setting or winding at all, but the screw-down crown, though rather small, pops out with more than enough space to allow my very short fingernails to pull it out further.

The polished PVD case is surprisingly top notch. It looks well coated and soundly bonded. This piece comes standard with a black NATO strap with PVD buckles. As some of you might know, I'm not must of a NATO fan, so I fitted a pair of matte black calves with red box stitch instead.

The case is a tad too thin, in my opinion. However, it does allow you to tuck it under shirt sleeves easily. Notice the highly polished PVD case. The lugs are steeply angled and should fit those with small wrists really well as the case is not huge to begin with. Actually, the pin holes are a double-edged sword. While it allows straps to be removed easily, aesthetically, they are akin to pimples on an otherwise, flawless face.

Visible through the exhibition case back is the rhodium coated ETA 2893 movement. Th Glycine website advised that only the rotor is coated. However, the entire movement appears to be coated. What's neat is the Airman logo etched on the decorated rotor.

I believe the sapphire on the case back might be tinted as well. Here's the same watch, same place, taken from a different angel.

AS my wrist is not that huge, many feel that it looks ok on me. Unfortunately, optical illusion tends to come into play and make an all black object look smaller than it really is.

The biggest peeve from me has to be the thickness, or rather, the thinness of the case. It looks like a pancake on my wrist.

True to its stealthy and mysterious DNA, the lume is mediocre at best and you need a really bright source to jack it up to this level. Which is also probably its max.

It's a practical watch, especially when traveling. However, the busy and blackout dial makes quick time telling a bit of a challenge. The stock NATO straps are cheap and boring looking. The case could be thicker and larger to offset the effects of optical illusion. The lugs should be straighter. The lume sucks (but its a stealth watch, duh!). But all these gripes are, in my opinion outweighed by the very aesthetically pleasing design and unusual bezel locking device. As with any mass produced watch, it's not perfect but sure has the looks to grab attention.

Specifications :
Case Size : 42mm.
Lug Width : 22mm.
Movement : GL 293 (ETA 2836).
Power Reserve : +/- 42 Hours.
Crystal : Sapphire (Front and Back), Possibly tinted.
Case Material : Stainless Steel with PVD coating.
Water Resistance : 200m.

Pros :
- Reliable movement.
- Good loks.
- Sturdy and polished PVD coating.
- Easy to use crown.
- Bezel lock device.
- Relatively affordable price tag.
- Nice rotor.
- Rhodium plated movement.

Cons :
- Case is a bit too thin.
- Case could be larger by at least 2mm.
- Lousy lume (but it's a stealth watch!).
- Lugs should be straighter to make the watch look bigger.
- Cheap looking original NATO strap.
- Quick time reading not easy and needs practice.

Big Like Pam's - Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 47mm (PAM 422)

What do Panerai and Porsche have in common? No, not the same first letter in their names. Quoting a line which I remember vaguely from Top Gear's Jeremy Clarkson " Porsche has launched a new 911. And it looks exactly like the old one!"

Like the 911's chassis, the Luminor's case shape has barely changed over the decades. Like Porsche, Panerai has decided to stick to a winning formula, it seems. The porsche 911 comes in many guises - the 911 Carerra, 911Turbo, 911 Carerra S just to name a few. Similarly, the Panerai 1950's case is used in a wide array of offerings like the PAM 320, 321and 359 just to name a few.

However, the reliance on a recognisable shape and design allows both Porsche's and Panerai's products to be instantly identifiable. Honestly, I see nothing wrong with that. When there's no need to design a better mouse trap, why bother?

The 422 comes in the wake of the immensely popular 372. It utilises the same 47mm case as the 372 and 423 but lacks the historic looks of the 372.  The matte black dial is married with gold stick and Arabic markers (12, 3 and 6). Golden hands add that vintage feel to a modern rendition of a timeless classic. I prefer the presence of a second sub-dial on my PAM's. I like just that bit of clutter. That lop-sided, asymmetrical look of an otherwise, overly plain dial. Oh, did I mention it's a sandwich dial as well? I personally prefer sandwich dials.

One of my main concerns lies with the case. The 1950 case is rather huge. but not that chunky. Yes I have larger and thicker watches in my stash but what worries me about this particular beast is it's completely polished surface. Which translates to a potential ding magnet. Otherwise, there is nothing not to like about the classy lines of this very well finished cushion case.

What sets this case apart from the other Luminors is its unique shape. From what I understand, this case shape is a little different from previous offerings like the 000, 005, 111, and even the later models like the 320, 312, and 359. This cushion case is similar to the Radiomir's. Now, instead of wire lugs, it is fittted with the Luminor's signature thick lugs, and and chunky crown guard.

I am rather let down by the crown guard, actually. No, the build quality is fine. I feel that at the price they charge for this watch, they should at least match it with a polished device rather than one that is obviously mass produced for their other offerings as a 'one size fit all' solution.

This piece features a transparent case back which allows you a glimpse of the in-house P3001 movement. The P3001 is the same series of in-house calibres used in the 371 and 423 as well. This is a 3-day power reserve hand wound movement. The former has no power reserve indicator (PRI), while the later has one on the dial. The P3001 has it on the rear of the movement. I am also rather let-down by the see-through case back. It is a huge window, granted, but the movement is almost entirely hidden, much like a continental car's engine bay. You'll know what I mean when you lift the bonnet of a Merc or Bimma.

It is a huge watch and it shows. There is that bit of overhang as a result of the relatively straight lugs. But I reckon it still looks pretty okay on my wrist.

I wouldn't say the lume is legendary but it is typical Panerai. Vintage green and neat. And most importantly, it does the job adequately.

The watch comes standard with a pair of assolutamente straps. These are the straps on the bottom of the photograph above which are not fitted to the 422. It's basically a Panerai-speak for nubuck. They are fantastic looking straps except for two minor details. Firstly, nubuck is similar to suede in texture. Therefore, if you wet it, it's doomed. Secondly, the stock straps are 26/22mm. I personally fel that the taper is too much. A 22mm Tang buckle is far too small for a 47mm case. As you can see, I managed to find a pair of straps that look almost like the original assolutamente, with a straigh 26/26mm dimension, and is not finished like suede or nubuck. And to top it off, it's a fraction of the price!

this is the second PAM i have. The other is the 320. What I like about Panerai is how similar they look. So much so, that my dear wife still does not know I have two Panerais! She still think this is the 320! However, it might seem like I am rather disappointed with this PAM but honestly, I am not. I am rather pleased with it, aesthetically. I like how Panerai has given a historic piece a modern touch. I like the overall vintage-inspired package. Most of all, I like the size and heft. And as with most PAM's the aftermarket strap options are endless. Unless it's a customised piece, it's impossible to own a watch that meets one's expectations in every detail. As such, I've chosen this watch for one simple reason - I like it!

Specifications :
Case Size : 47mm.
Lug Width : 26mm.
Movement : Calibre P3001 (Panerai In-house hand wound movement).
Power Reserve : 3 days.
Crystal : Saphire.
Case Material : Polished Stainless Steel.

Pros :
- Size. It'a a huge presence, literally.
- Aesthetically pleasing eye candy.
- Plentiful aftermarket strap options.
- Easy to smuggle hone without wife knowing.
- Classic design.
- Build quality and finish.

Cons :
- Ding magnet.
- High price tag.
- Stock straps (26/22mm) not proportionate to the watch size (47mm).
- Crown guard not polished, does not match polished case.
- Movement is too covered up.

All That Glitter Ain't Always Gold - Steinhart Nav B 47 Handwinding Bronze

Yes, it's yet another Steinhart. Yes, It's another pilot.  But I's my first Steinhart Bronze! After Panerai launched the PAM 382 a couple of years ago, everyone has jumped onto the bandwagon. I admit, I'm rather attracted to bronzos but I am rather selective. The way I see it, there are bronzos (those that sing to me) and there are bozos (those duds with no tune). The line between them is more obvious then the missing letters in the latter.

I've never really been a fan of the Steinhart Nav B-uhr handwound range. The only exceptions being the previously reviewed ST1 Gold and this. But let's leave the ST1 out of the picture as it's already been reviewed. Let's, however, focus on this beast on our petri dish today. The obvious difference, as the name suggests is the bronze case. The other, which I am personally drawn to, is the sunburst dial. The third, though not that important to most folks, is the straps. It's one of the most matching and best looking pair of leather hide that I've ever received on a watch from these Teuton lads. Let's focus on each of these aspects individually.

I was initially skeptical about a pilot watch dressed in bronze. This is a relatively rare marriage. Archemede did it recently, I think. But in a smaller case (42mm). And that's the only example that comes to mind. Thus, I broke my golden rule when I purchased this watch. I actually ordered it without first trying it on. But I'm glad the gamble paid off. I like it. When I opened the box, I thought I had won the first prize and not the third. Yes, it actually looks more gold than bronze. The composition of copper and tin might be a little different from the other bronze watches in my collection. This bronze case is brighter and boasts a shade that is closer to dull yellow gold. It is not the dull and dark coloured alloy I am used to wearing.

The satin-brushed case is elaborate yet clean at the same time. It shares the same case as its stainless steel brethren. The lugs are angled in the same manner. It is just as slim as well. It really fits the bill of an elegant dress watch in this form and shade of colour. The standard 22mm lugs translate to a wide array of after market strap options.

I reckon I have figured out an apt description for this crown - chalice. I reckon it kind of resemble a chalice. Especially in this colour. And yes, I still don't quite like the overly protruding crown.

Now, the dial. I really DIG this sunburst dial. It radiates symmetrically from the centre like rays of light in a dark room. I always find such neatly crafted sunburst dials soothingly elegant and enticing. What more need I say.

The case back offers a view of the Soigne grade UNITAS 6497 movement. Now, There was a limited dealer/ boutique edition of this particularly offering (also in 44mm) but instead of the UNITAS 6497, a lower grade ST1 (minus the swan neck regulator) is installed instead. Due to a miscommunication between the local AD and myself, I missed out on the that variant.

Now, the third thing that I like - the straps. The light brown straps that came fitted as standard are the best looking from Steinhart I've ever seen. It's got a natural uneveness in the tone and colour that makes it look almost untainted. And the actually match the bronze case very well. Oh, the bronze tang buckle is a nifty touch as well, especially as it is of the exact shade and colour as the case.

On the wrist, it sits rather pretty on my 6 3/4-inch wrist except for that tiny bit of overhang thanks to the lugs.

On the lume front, it's no Seiko but I wouldn't recommend this to a ninja. Or if you're intending to sneak home after a late night out without drawing attention.

On the whole, I am beginning to like the way Steinhart differentiates the different variants in their model line-ups. Some touches are subtle yet prominent enough for even the laymen to notice. This piece beats most of the other Steinharts that I have despite its simplicity. It's not perfect, well, let's get real, no watch can ever be perfect unless its customised to one's specifications, but this piece is close. The sum of its parts make it a compellingly different timepiece that deserve special mention and attention, if not, recognition.

Specifications :
Case Size : 47mm.
Lug Width : 22mm.
Case Material : Bronze.
Crystal : Sapphire.
Movement : UNITAS 6497.
Power Reserve : +/- 42 hours.

Pros :
- Case colour/ shade compliments the watch theme and design.
- Well finished sunburst dial.
- Elegant, clean and not bad looking.
- Nice leather straps.
- Affordably priced.
- Overall, a very well designed, finished and handsomely stylish watch.
- Tried and tested movement.

Cons :
- Protruding crown.
- Relatively straight lugs resulting in overhang on smaller wrists.
- Not very versatile. More a dress watch (at least until the patina sets in).

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Smitten By Simple Elegance - Steinhart Nav B-Uhr 47 ST1 Premium Gold

What???!!! Another pilot watch? Haha! I guess you should be rather bored by now, seems like it's usually either pilot or diver. And worse, another Steinhart? I couldn't believe I'd actually purchase such a dressy piece myself. Well, you see, this ain't your usual Steinhart pilot or flieger as some would prefer to call it. This is rather different from the usual Nav B-Uhr range. I've actually kinda given up hope on getting this watch but when Gnomon's boss called me one evening, I broke all traffic laws (and possibly some laws of physics to get to the shop before closing time. After a tough couple minutes, I decided on this particular piece.

The main difference is really what's under the bonnet but I'd like to focus on the aesthetics first. Firstly, it's a sandwich dial. I particularly like the visible stencil of the Arabic markers. Next, there's the seconds sub-dial. It's an anthracite sunburst. I  find this little disc particularly stunning and an aesthetic coup as far as the facade is concerned. Now before we move to the rear, let's examine the case.

The case is finished in satin brushed stainless steel. The 22mm lugs are short and slightly angled. I'm not sure what this crown should be called. It's not a diamond, neither is it bulbous like an onion or pumpkin. Anyway, It's not as painful on the wrist as their usual diamond crown. But I find the protrusion from the case is a tad too much. Now, on to the main event...

Through the case back, we can see what really is the difference. Instead of a regular 6497 with decoration and Geneva stripes, we have bright, shiny base gleaming with glory through the exhibition case back. Yes, this is Steinhart's foray into in-house movement. This is the ST1 Premium Gold. Actually, to call it an in-house movement might not be legally correct. You see, it's essentially a UNITAS 6497 base movement. to be honest, I'm not really an expert when it comes to movements, but from what my untrained eye can see, they've replaced the regulator with a swan neck regulator. The Steinhart logo is clearly seen on one of the wheels. and the 3/4 bridge is designed and made by Steinhart. Also, unlike a regular UNITAS 6497, this handsome crafted machine boasts a low beat of 18,000vph (versus 21,600vph on a regular UNTAS 6497).

This range comes in three offerings - Gold, Silver and Anthrazite. Each come in either 44mm or 47mm cases. The local AD, however, only brought in 2 gold and 2 silver (a 44mm and a 47mm in each). I decided on the gold as it was more uncommon. Hoever, I must add that the swan eck is more prominent in the silver.

I have several other 47mm Steinhart pilots and this one does not wear any differently. Like the others, there's a slight bit of overhang thanks to the slightly straighter lugs. The crown does not cause as much pain as the diamond crown found on their chronos.

The lume is exactly a Seiko lantern but it's good enough for me. It's a nice shade of turquoise, actually.

I absolutely love the look of this rendition of the Nav B-Uhr. As a pricier, premium range, I reckon the folks at Steinhart did a good job at making subtle changes to differentiate it from the regular offerings. Price-wise, it's actually quite a few scales higher than the normal range. But bearing in mind this is an in-house calibre, or at least one with quite a few modifications, I reckon it's still relatively well priced.

Specifications:
Case Size : 47mm.
Lug Width : 24mm.
Movement : Steinhart ST1 (UNITAS 6497 base).
Power Reserve : +/- 42 hours.
Case Material : Stainless Steel
Water Resistance : 30m.

Pros :
- Beautifully crafted.
- Dial is clearly differentiated from regular Nav B-uhr.
- Very nicely finished ST1 movement.
- Easy to use crown that doesn't hurt or cut into the back of the palm.
- Clean and easy to read dial.

Cons :
- Price is just a tad on the high side.
- Not readily available.
- Crown protrudes a little too much from the watch case.
- Lugs should be angled a little more to reduce the overhang on smaller wrists.